A TOUR OF THE ISLAND.
From that day, July 18th, it was decided that the bearings
should be taken as on board a vessel whenever the state of the
atmosphere rendered the operation possible. Was not the island, in
fact, a disabled ship, tossed about without sails or helm.
The next day after taking the bearings, Hobson announced that
without change of latitude the island had advanced several miles
farther west. Mac-Nab was ordered to commence the construction of a
huge boat, Hobson telling him, in explanation, that he proposed
making a reconnaissance of the coast as far as Russian America next
summer. The carpenter asked no further questions, but proceeded to
choose his wood, and fixed upon the beach at the foot of Cape
Bathurst as his dockyard, so that he might easily be able to launch
Hobson intended to set out the same day on his excursion round
the island in which he and his comrades were imprisoned. Many
changes might take place in the configuration of this sheet of ice,
subject as it was to the influence of the variable temperature of
the waves, and it was important to determine its actual form at the
present time, its area, and its thickness in different parts. The
point of rupture, which was most likely at the isthmus itself,
ought to be examined with special care; the fracture being still
fresh, it might be possible to ascertain the exact arrangement of
the stratified layers of ice and earth of which the soil of the
island was composed.
But in the afternoon the sky clouded over suddenly, and a
violent squall, accompanied with thick mists, swept down upon the
fort. Presently torrents of rain fell, and large hailstones rattled
on the roof, whilst a few distant claps of thunder were heard, a
phenomenon of exceedingly rare occurrence in such elevated
Hobson was obliged to put off his trip, and wait until the fury
of the elements abated, but during the 20th, 2lst, and 22d July, no
change occurred. The storm raged, the floods of heaven were let
loose, and the waves broke upon the beach with a deafening roar.
Liquid avalanches were flung with such force upon Cape Bathurst,
that there was reason to dread that it might give way; its
stability was, in fact, somewhat problematical, as it consisted
merely of an aggregation of sand and earth, without any firm
foundation. Vessels at sea might well be pitied in this fearful
gale, but the floating island was of too vast a bulk to be affected
by the agitation of the waves, and remained indifferent to their
During the night of the 22d July the tempest suddenly ceased. A
strong breeze from the north-east dispelled the last mists upon the
horizon. The barometer rose a few degrees, and the weather appeared
likely to favour Hobson’s expedition.
He was to be accompanied by Mrs Barnett and Sergeant Long, and
expected to be absent a day or two. The little party took some salt
meat, biscuits, and a few flasks of rum with them, and there was
nothing in their excursion to surprise the rest of the colonists.
The days were just then very long, the sun only disappearing below
the horizon for a few hours.
There were no wild animals to be feared now. The bears seemed to
have fled by instinct from the peninsula whilst it was still
connected with the mainland, but to neglect no precaution each of
the three explorers was provided with a gun. The Lieutenant and his
subordinate also carried hatchets and ice-chisels, which a
traveller in the Polar regions should never be without.
During the absence of the Lieutenant and the Sergeant, the
command of the fort fell to Corporal Joliffe, or rather to his
little wife, and Hobson knew that he could trust her. Thomas Black
could not be depended on; he would not even join the exploring
party; he promised, however, to watch the northern latitudes very
carefully, and to note any change which should take place in the
sea or the position of the cape during the absence of the
Mrs Barnett had endeavoured to reason with the unfortunate
astronomer, but he would listen to nothing. He felt that Nature had
deceived him, and that he could never forgive her.
After many a hearty farewell, the Lieutenant and his two
companions left the fort by the postern gate, and, turning to the
west, followed the lengthened curve of the coast between Capes
Bathurst and Esquimaux.
It was eight o’clock in the morning; the oblique rays of
the sun struck upon the beach, and touched it with many a brilliant
tint, the angry billows of the sea were sinking to rest, and the
birds, ptarmigans, guillemots, puffins, and petrels, driven away by
the storm, were returning by thousands. Troops of ducks were
hastening back to Lake Barnett, flying close, although they knew it
not, to Mrs Joliffe’s saucepan. Polar hares, martens, musk
rats, and ermines rose before the travellers and fled at their
approach, but not with any great appearance of haste or terror. The
animals evidently felt drawn towards their old enemies by a common
“They know well enough that they are hemmed in by the sea
and cannot quit the island,” observed Hobson.
“They are all in the habit of seeking warmer climates in
the south in the winter, are they not?” inquired Mrs
“Yes, madam, but unless they are presently able to cross
the ice-field, they will have to remain prisoners like ourselves,
and I am afraid the greater number will die of cold or hunger.
“I hope they will be good enough to supply us with food
for a long time,” observed the Sergeant,” and I think
it is very fortunate that they had not the sense to run away before
the rupture of the isthmus.”
“The birds will, however, leave us?” added Mrs
“Oh yes, madam, everything with wings will go, they can
traverse long distances without fatigue, and, more fortunate than
ourselves, they will regain terra firma.”
“Could we not use them as messengers?” asked Mrs
“A good idea, madam, a capital idea,” said Hobson.
“We might easily catch some hundreds of these birds, and tie
a paper round their necks with our exact situation written upon it.
John Ross in 1848 tried similar means to acquaint the survivors of
the Franklin expedition with the presence of his ships, the
Enterprise and the Investigator in the Polar
seas. He caught some hundreds of white foxes in traps, rivetted a
copper collar round the neck of each with all the necessary
information engraved upon it, and then set them free in every
“Perhaps some of the messengers may have fallen into the
hands of the shipwrecked wanderers.”
“Perhaps so,” replied Hobson; “I know that an
old fox was taken by Captain Hatteras during his voyage of
discovery, wearing a collar half worn away and hidden beneath his
thick white fur. What we cannot do with the quadrupeds, we will do
with the birds.”
Chatting thus and laying plans for the future, the three
explorers continued to follow the coast. They noticed no change;
the abrupt cliffs covered with earth and sand showed no signs of a
recent alteration in the extent of the island. It was, however, to
be feared that the vast sheet of ice would be worn away at the base
by the action of the warm currents, and on this point Hobson was
By eleven o’clock in the morning the eight miles between
Capes Bathurst and Esquimaux had been traversed. A few traces of
the encampment of Kalumah’s party still remained; of course
the snow huts had entirely disappeared, but some cinders and walrus
bones marked the spot.
The three explorers halted here for a short time, they intended
to pass the few short hours of the night at Walruses’ Bay,
which they hoped to reach In a few hours. They breakfasted seated
on a slightly rising ground covered with a scanty and stunted
herbage. Before their eyes lay the ocean bounded by a
clearly-defined sea-horizon, without a sail or an iceberg to break
the monotony of the vast expanse of water.
“Should you be very much surprised if some vessel came In
sight now, Lieutenant?” inquired Mrs Barnett.
“I should be very agreeably surprised, madam,”
replied Hobson. “It is not at all uncommon for whalers to
come as far north as this, especially now that the Arctic Ocean is
frequented by whales and chacholots, but you must remember that it
is the 23rd July, and the summer is far advanced. The whole fleet
of whaling vessels is probably now in Gulf Kotzebue, at the
entrance to the strait. Whalers shun the sudden changes in the
Arctic Ocean, and with good reason. They dread being shut in the
ice; and the icebergs, avalanches, and, ice-fields they avoid, are
the very things for which we earnestly pray.”
“They will come, Lieutenant,” said Long; “have
patience, in another two months the waves will no longer break upon
the shores of Cape Esquimaux.”
“Cape Esquimaux!” observed Mrs Barnett with a smile.
“That name, like those we gave to the other parts of the
peninsula, may turn out unfortunate too. We have lost Port Barnett
and Paulina River; who can tell whether Cape Esquimaux and
Walruses’ Bay may not also disappear in time?”
“They too will disappear, madam,” replied Hobson,
“and after them the whole of Victoria Island, for nothing now
connects it with a continent, and it is doomed to destruction. This
result is inevitable, and our choice of geographical names will be
thrown away; but fortunately the Royal Society has not yet adopted
them, and Sir Roderick Murchison will have nothing to efface on his
“One name he will,” exclaimed the Sergeant.
“Which?” inquired Hobson.
“Cape Bathurst,” replied Long.
“Ah, yes, you are right. Cape Bathurst must now be removed
from maps of the Polar regions.”
Two hours’ rest were all the explorers cared for, and at
one o’clock they prepared to resume their journey.
Before starting Hobson once more looked round him from the
summit of Cape Esquimaux; but seeing nothing worthy of notice, he
rejoined Mrs Barnett and Sergeant Long.
“Madam,” he said, addressing the lady, “you
have not forgotten the family of natives we met here last
“Oh no, I have always held dear little Kalumah in friendly
remembrance. She promised to come and see us again at Fort Hope,
but she will not be able to do so. But why do you ask me about the
“Because I remember something to which, much to my regret,
I did not at the time attach sufficient importance.”
“What was that?”
“You remember the uneasy surprise the men manifested at
finding a big a factory at the foot of Cape Bathurst.”
“Oh yes, perfectly.”
“You remember that I tried to make out what the natives
meant, and that I could not do so?”
“Yes, I remember.”
“Well,” added Hobsou, “I know now why they
shook their heads. From tradition, experience, or something, the
Esquimaux knew what the peninsula really was, they knew we had not
built on firm ground. But as things had probably remained as they
were for centuries, they thought there was no immediate danger, and
that it was not worth while to explain themselves.”
“Very likely you are right,” replied Mrs Barnett;
“but I feel sure that Kalumah had no suspicion of her
companion’s fears, or she would have warned us.”
Hobson quite agreed with Mrs Barnett, and Sergeant Long
“It really seems to have been by a kind of fatality that
we settled ourselves upon this peninsula just before it was torn
away from the mainland. I suppose, Lieutenant, that it had been
connected for a very long time, perhaps for centuries.”
“You might say for thousands and thousands of years,
Sergeant,” replied Hobson. “Remember that the soil on
which we are treading has been brought here by the wind, little by
little, that the sand has accumulated grain by grain! Think of the
time it must have taken for the seeds of firs, willows, and arbutus
to become shrubs and trees! Perhaps the sheet of ice on which we
float was welded to the continent before the creation of
“Well,” cried Long, “it really might have
waited a few centuries longer before it drifted. How much anxiety
and how many dangers we might then have been spared!”
Sergeant Long’s most sensible remark closed the
conversation, and the journey was resumed.
From Cape Esquimaux to Walruses’ Bay the coast ran almost
due south, following the one hundred and twenty-seventh meridian.
Looking behind them they could see one corner of the lagoon, its
waters sparkling in the sunbeams, and a little beyond the wooded
heights in which it was framed. Large eagles soared above their
heads, their cries and the loud flapping of their wings breaking
the stillness, and furred animals of many kinds, martens, polecats,
ermines, &c., crouching behind some rising ground, or hiding
amongst the stunted bushes and willows, gazed inquiringly at the
intruders. They seemed to understand that they had nothing to fear.
Hobson caught a glimpse of a few beavers wandering about, evidently
ill at ease, and puzzled at the disappearance of the little river.
With no ledges to shelter them, and no stream by which to build a
new home, they were doomed to die of cold when the severe frost set
in. Sergeant Long also saw a troop of wolves crossing the
It was evident that specimens of the whole Arctic Fauna were
imprisoned on the island, and there was every reason to fear that,
when famished with hunger, all the carnivorous beasts would be
formidable enemies to the occupants of Fort Hope.
Fortunately, however, one race of animals appeared to be quite
unrepresented. Not a single white bear was seen! Once the Sergeant
thought he saw an enormous white mass moving about on the other
side of a clump of willows, but on close examination decided that
he was mistaken.
The coast near Walruses’ Bay was, on the whole, only
slightly elevated above the sea-level, and in the distance the
waves broke into running foam as they do upon a sloping beach. It
was to be feared that the soil had little stability, but there was
no means of judging of the modifications which had taken place
since their last visit, and Hobson much regretted that he had not
made bench marks about Cape Bathurst before he left, that he might
judge of the amount of sinking or depression which took place. He
determined, however, to take this precaution on his return.
It will be understood that, under the circumstances, the party
did not advance very rapidly. A pause was often made to examine the
soil, or to see if there were any sign of an approaching fracture
on the coast, and sometimes the explorers wandered inland for half
a mile. Here and there the Sergeant planted branches of willow or
birch to serve as landmarks for the future, especially wherever
undermining seemed to be going on rapidly and the solidity of the
ground was doubtful. By this means it would be easy to ascertain
the changes which might take place.
They did advance, however, and at three o’clock in the
afternoon they were only three miles from Walruses’ Bay, and
Hobson called Mrs Barnett’s attention to the important
changes which had been effected by the rupture of the isthmus.
Formerly the south-western horizon was shut in by a long
slightly curved coast-line, formed by the shores of Liverpool Bay.
Now a sea-line bounded the view, the continent having disappeared.
Victoria Island ended in an abrupt angle where it had broken off,
and all felt sure that on turning round that angle the ocean would
be spread out before them, and that its waves would bathe the whole
of the southern side of the island, which was once the
connecting-link between Walruses’ Bay and Washburn Bay.
Mrs Barnett could not look at the changed aspect of the scene
without emotion. She had expected it, and yet her heart beat almost
audibly. She gazed across the sea for the missing continent, which
was now left several hundred miles behind, and it rushed upon her
mind with a fresh shock that she would never set foot on America
again. Her agitation was indeed excusable, and it was shared by the
Lieutenant and the Sergeant.
All quickened their steps, eager to reach the abrupt angle in
the south. The ground rose slightly as they advanced, and the
layers of earth and sand became thicker; this of course was
explained by the former proximity of this part of the coast to the
true continent. The thickness of the crust of ice and of the layer
of earth at the point of junction increasing, as it probably did,
every century, explained the long resistance of the isthmus, which
nothing but some extraordinary convulsion could have overcome. Such
a convulsion was the earthquake of the 8th January, which, although
it had only affected the continent of North America, had sufficed
to break the connecting-link, and to launch Victoria Island upon
the wide ocean.
At four o’clock P.M., the angle was reached.
Walruses’ Bay, formed by an indentation of the firm ground,
had disappeared! It had remained behind with the continent
“By my faith, madam!” exclaimed the Sergeant,
“it’s lucky for you we didn’t call it Paulina
“Yes,” replied the lady, “I begin to think I
am an unlucky godmother for newly-discovered